A hike back in time.
- the1hiker
- Feb 20, 2020
- 5 min read
8am Friday morning July 26/19 i walked out to my shop to load my bags onto my 650 Vstrome. This would be my first medium distance trip with my bike to go hiking into the Selkirk mountain range near New Denver B.C. I have two hikes planned for the weekend one to Idaho peak the other to the Whitewater Trail by the ghost town of Retallack. As i loaded up my bike could feel the excitement building in me. I had done the Idaho Peak hike the previous summer but i was really looking forward to the Whitewater Trail hike. During this trip i was also going to check out the ghost towns of Sandon, Ratalleck and Cody. These towns were known for their rich history from the silver mining in the area during the 1800's and the internment of Japanese/Canadian individuals during the Second World War.
Now this was only a 150km ride to New Denver from my farm outside of Rossland B.C. but the road is a twisting two lane road for the most part that follows the Columbia River, then along the Slocan River through some absolutely gorgeous countryside.
As I cruised up the valley I decided to take my time and stop for a coffee and slice of pizza at the famous Frog Peak Cafe in Crescent Valley where I had delivered one of my chainsaw carvings a couple of months back. The owner Laurel Giasson is an absolutely wonderful lady and a very strong supportter of the local artisans. I highly recommend stopping by if you are ever in the area and be sure to take your picture, with my 11 ft. tall creation or in the VW van front end, in front of the restaurant.
Pictured here is Laurel with her partner Matt in front of the Frog Peak Cafe. It is located at

1418 Hwy 6, Crescent Valley, B.C
Serving an amazing breakfast and lunch this little restaurant is more than just a local favorite spot it's well known throughout the entire area. Don't be surprised if the parking lot is full. Believe me the wait you may encounter is worth it!
As I pulled into New Denver looked for the Glacier View Cabins; this is where I was going to be based out of for the weekend. Finding them on the left side of the highway part way through this beautiful little town. I found this place to be more than adequate for my needs.
It is just a couple of blocks from the main down town and about 4 blocks from the beach of Slocan lake.

Slocan lake is 39km in length and up to 2.7km's wide. With settlements running along the southern end and eastern side of the lake; including Slocan city, Silverton, New Denver, Rosebery and Hills.
To the west are the Valhallah's, most of which are enshrined in the Valhalla Provincial Park.
Saturday morning I climbed onto my bike and headed down Hwy. 31a towards Kaslo approximately 19km down the road I took the turn off to the left at the ghost town of Retallack to the trail head of Whitewater Trail. A short 5-10 miniute ride up the dirt road I arrived at the parking area.
After doing my stretches and reading the site map, the map states that it would take about 6 hrs. to complete this hike and also to watch for grizzlies in the area, I checked my gear not to forget anything and I was off.
Right away I pass some old mine workings and a number of huckleberry bushes so of course I had to check them both out. The trail is fairly easy to start out with crossing the side hill into the valley as the trail turned to the left the valley opens up to reveal a spectacular view of the steep sided valley I was going to be climbing up. lush green with a small stream running along the valley floor far below and snow capped mountain tops in the distance. Beautifully stunning was all I could think of this view. I could hear the wind whistling through the trees along with the sporadic chirp from marmots coming from the rocks they were sunbathing on.

Looking up the Whitewater Trail.
I would be hiking another 4 miles or so up this valley.
The trail continues up the left side of the valley arriving at a small camp site for tenters at a small glacier feed stream next to a large land slide of massive boulders.

View looking up the valley from the camp site.

View looks down the valley from the camp site.
I filled my water bottle from the stream and decided I would scamper across the boulders to take a short cut to the pond and cabin that is at the base of the glacier.
Who was I kidding, at my age, there was no scampering to be had, the boulders are far too big and the gaps between them are large enough to swallow me whole. So as I carefully picked my way through them I come across a small pool where I decided to take a break and eat my lunch.

An absolutely beautiful place for a break.
I decided to get back on the trail which was just above me to the right of this pool and continue my way up.

As I stoped to catch my breath looking towards the glacier I could hear some rustling in the trees about a hundred meters in front of me, expecting to see some hikers pop out of the tree line on the trail below I was greeted to the site of a mother grizzly with two cubs.
Not wanting to become their lunch I quietly watched them sun themselves on the rocks. About 30 minuets later they slowly made their way down to the waters edge occasionally stoping and grazing on the grass and wild flowers. Choosing not to disturb them after getting to watch them do their thing for almost an hour i decided to turn around a head back down. Dissapointed in not completeing the total distance of the trail ( i was only about 1 km from the end ) i consold my self with the fact i was treated to a spectacular show put on by this family of bears.

View goming back down the trail.

View of valley bottom and stream.
I made great time with this hike even with breaking for lunch it took me just over 5 hours return.
As i made my way back down to gravel road on my bike i stoped at some of the mine ruins to do some exploring. Looking back in time and wondering what life would have been like back in the 1800's as a miner.
This is a highly recommended hike, and if you are in the area be sure to check out all the ruins and don't miss the ghost town of Sandon.

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